When I was staying in Cape Town some years ago, I saw it for the first time. A long, elegant train sitting at the station, polished wood gleaming in the sunlight, staff in smart uniforms bustling around. I didn’t know what it was at the time, but it had a presence that made me stop and stare. Later, I found out it was the Rovos Rail “Pride of Africa”, about to begin a journey all the way to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania.